Thanks to Life and Traditions in Rural Ireland (1977) by Timothy O'Neill for these references (via Jane O'Brien)
William Good who came to Ireland as a Missionary in the 1560’s wrote:
"They generally go bare headed save when they wear a head piece, having a long head of haire, with curled gleebes, which they highly value and take it hainously if one twitch or pull them. They wear linnen shifts, very large with sleeves down to their knees, which they generally dye with saffron. They have woollen jackets, but very short; plain breeches close to their thighs; and over these they cast their mantles or shag-rugs - fringed with an agreeable mixture of colours, in which they wrap themselves up and sleep on the ground. Such also do the women cast over the garment which comes down to their ankles, and they load their heads rather than adorn them, with several ells of fine linen rolled up in wreaths, as they do their necks with necklaces and their arms with bracelets.
By the 17th Century English Law and influence began to spread more and more outside the Pale. ‘The civil assemblies at the assizes sessions’ wrote Sir John
Davies ‘ reclaimed the Irish from their wildness; caused them to cut their glibs and long hair, to convert their mantles into cloaks; and to conform themselves to the manner of England in all their behaviour and outward forms’ Traditional dress amongst men was dropped in favour of contemporary English fashion. This continued more and more into the 18th Century.
Of Women: Luke Gernon wrote in 1620:
"I proceed to theyr gowns…..they have straight bodyes, and long wasts, but theyre bodyes come no closer but to Th. middle of the ribbe, the rest is supplyed with long lacing, from the topp of their breasts, to the bottom of theyre plackett, the ordinary sort have only theyre smockes between, but the better sort have a silke scarfe about theyre neck, which they spread and pinne over theyre breasts. On the forepart of those bodyes they have a sett of broad silver buttons of goldsmiths worke sett round about. A sett of those buttons will be worth 40s. Some are worth £5. They have hanging sleeves, very narrow, but no arming sleeves other than theyre smocke sleeves, or a waistcoate of stripped stuffe, only they have a wrestband of the same cloth, and a lyst of the same to joyne it to their winge, but no thing on the hinder part of the arme least they should weare out theyr elbowes. The better sort have sleeves of satten. The skirt is a piece of rare artifice. At every bredth of three fingers they sew it quite through with a welte, so that it seemeth so many lystes put together. That they do for strength, they girde theyr gowne with a silke girdle, the tassell whereof must hang down poynt blanke before the fringe of theyr peticotes……They beginne to wear stockins coloured, but they have not disdayned to wear stockins of raw whyte frise, and broges. They weare theyr mantles also as well within doors as without. Theyr mantles are commonly of a browne blew colour with fringe alike, but those that love to be gallent weare them of greene, redd, yellow and other light colours, with fringes diversified. An ordinary mantle is worth £4, those in the country which cannot go to the price weare whyte sheets mantlewise. I would not have you to suppose that all the Irish are thus strangely attyred as I have described. The old women are loath to be shifted out of theyr ancient habitts, but the younger sort, especially in gentlemen’s houses, are brought up to resemble the English, so that it is to be hoped, that the next age will weare out these disguises."
By the time of the 19th century a style of men’s dress had evolved which was to become almost a national costume. This consisted of tightly fitting knee breeches, a ‘swallow-tail’ coat, a Caroline hat and brogues or hob nailed boots. By the 19th century coats were almost invariable made of frieze, but the colour varied. Blue was the most popular with many variants . Breeches were usually made of dark corduroy and sometimes of frieze. Waistcoats increased in fashion and were made of corduroy, frieze or cotton known as Manchester cotton. Buttons were made of brass. Woollen stockings are described as blue, white or brown and shirts invariable white or blue. But..with poverty much of the population was dressed in rags in the 19th century. Clothes regardless of fashion were worn for a long time and being frequently patched, people generally presented a tattered appearance. With patching, hard wearing friezes could last a man a lifetime when poverty prevented people buying new clothes.
The passing on of garments is often seen in will abstracts.
In the 19th century the tight laced bodice and the wide skirt, sometimes in one piece were common. While descriptions of women’s clothes can be generalised it has been said that ‘the inhabitants of one barony are easily distinguishable by their peculiar dress from another’. Women’s dress in the last century showed greater continuity with ancient Ireland than men’s. The hooded cloak, the garment evolved from the great mantle of antiquity, was popular and made of many colours, surviving only as a black cloak in west cork to the middle of this century. Originally cloaks were made of coarse frieze, but gradually finer fabrics became more popular and broadcloth and pilotcloth were used. Married women usually wore some form of covering on their heads. Small linen or lace caps, muslin caps, high cauled mop caps and handkerchiefs of various colours were worn. Single women generally went bareheaded and shoes when worn were usually of the brogue type. In some districts footless stockings were worn and during the century cotton stockings became fashionable for the more affluent. Frieze was as popular with women as with men. Druggets and flannel were also popular while cotton came into common use in the last century. Gowns of cotton or linen were often worn over skirts of frieze or drugget and when working these garments were generally turned up and fitted into the waist band. The garment often called a red petticoat could be described as a skirt and was expected to be seen.
Barrow describing women in the Headford area of Co. Galway wrote
"The females in this part of the country as well as in Connemara, wear short red jackets and petticoats, the former reaching a little below the waist; or a gown is sometimes superadded, generally tucked up, as if purposely to show the bright red garment underneath"
These were even sometimes worn as shawls over the head. Neck scarves were popular as were small shoulder shawls, which were usually worn over a blouse, the end being tucked inside the waistband of a skirt. Larger shawls also became popular in the last century and these replaced hooded cloaks as the normal outer garment in many areas.
Children’s clothes were scaled down copies of adults clothes. Small boys commonly wore dresses until the age of seven, and little boys and girls were indistinguishable except in the way their hair was cut. The explanation offered was that this was to confuse the fairies who sometimes took small boys away to the land of youth.
We are told of Irish embroidery in the early heroic literature, but nothing survives from this period. In a later period lace making, crochet, ornate knitting and sophisticated silk weaving were carried on and pieces survive showing the craft and skill of their makers.
Dressing up in unusual costumes formed part of the traditional celebrations on holidays and special occasions in Ireland. There was also ritual concerning the manufacture and use of ordinary clothes. Spinning, fulling and even knitting were traditional processes carried out by groups of neighbours and such meetings became occasions of enjoyments and gaiety. These often ended with a dance, a special meal and singing or storytelling. There were also unwritten rules about clothes. Best were usually described as Sunday clothes and were always worn to mass. In many areas it was considered unlucky to wear a new garment until it had been first worn to Mass.
Donegal and Aran jumpers were originally knitted by men
